Masons at the lush Gillman Barracks enclave recently launched its new menu with a new chef at the helm. The magnificent food matches its grand setting
By Lester J Wan
Set amidst lush greenery, Masons at Gillman Barracks, just off Alexandra Road, is somewhat a hidden gem. Nevertheless, the patronage has been steadily increasing as its reputation has grown.
With its colonial architecture and simple yet grand décor, Masons has also been growing in popularity as a setting for corporate and intimate events.
New Chef and Menu
To take Masons on the crest of a new wave, new Executive Head Chef Jack Woolner presents a whole new menu with new pleasures. Formerly the Executive Head Chef of the respectable sister restaurants The Greene Oak and The White Oak in the UK, he had been trained by Michelin-star chefs in his younger years, influencing his standards and culinary style.
A strapping and affable gent, his approach in cuisine is to harmonise “traditional classics with a modern twist”.
The epitome of this approach is evident in the very first course of Masons’ Gastronomique Tasting Menu.
Incomparable Creations
I was first greeted by the golden, regal-looking Seared Foie Gras with Roasted Orange and Cointreau. Truthfully, my instinctive reaction to the taste was, “Wow!” This version of the foie gras dish has amazing flavour with plenty of mouth-watering zing. Together with the smooth, creamy texture of the foie gras, it was a beautiful sensory experience.
In fact, it is miles better any other foie gras dish I can remember, in other restaurants. The sweet, citrus and mildly-roasted taste of the orange is pleasing and strong. On the whole, it was warm, nourishing and comforting.
If you choose the wine pairing option, the Cloudy Bay Late Harvest Riesling is sweet, dessert-like, and has hints of apricot. It might be a tad sweet for some, though. The texture is also a bit nectar-like.
The Classic Lobster Cognac Bisque truly was a pleasant surprise. Rich, smooth, dark and flavourful, with a lot of character in flavour, it was much better than expected, even compared to that of a recent French restaurant I had dined in. The Lobster Cognac Bisque was not thick or pasty, the lobster or shrimp taste was not overpowering, and there was no aftertaste. If you are not a fan of lobster bisque, you might well be after this.
Gastronomic Adventure
To go with this or the next course, the Odyssey-sounding Trilogie de la Mer, the Louis Moreau Petit Chablis 2010 is a light Burgundy wine that would go well with most dishes. It has a pleasant taste of fresh grapes and would be ideal for a casual glass at any time.
The Trilogie de la Mer comprises seared scallop, lobster tail and cod tortellini with mussel sauce. I’m not big on peas but the pea paste base was sweet, even tasting a little like an oriental-style dessert. The dish tasted nice and was visually attractive, but perhaps I had expected just a little more with its epic-sounding name.
The best part of the Gastronomique menu would be the Seared Wagyu Beef Fillet with Roasted Duck Breast. This is an ingenious combination of two equally-great dishes on the a la carte menu. The duck skin was crispy, which added to the delight. The Wagyu beef was, of course, tender with a good texture.
Parting is Sweet Sorrow As the meal drew to a close, the Rustic Lemon Tart with Raspberry Salad gently eased me toward the final lap of my gastronomic voyage. Served with a dollop of fresh ream, the tart had a soft, gel-like quality and a robust zest, at an amount that was just right.
To further dissipate the melancholic wave that was beginning to wash over me at the end of this experience, the Moscato with Fresh Raspberry was effervescent and had an interesting taste that was a lot more fun than formal.
The Petit Fours of chocolate with chocolate ganache and a choice of coffee or tea, prepared me to part ways, albeit reluctantly.
The Gastronomique Tasting Menu is priced at $98++, or $150++ with wine pairing. The a la carte menu has more options. The Executive Set Lunch is priced at $28++ for two courses or $38++ for three courses. This is fantastic value for magnificent cuisine.
From start to finish, my companion was held in awe by the setting, the cuisine and the charming ambience. Masons is a place you have to experience.
Masons, 8 Lock Road, Gillman Barracks, Singapore 108936, Tel: 6694 2216
Masons is part of the Verve Restaurant Group. This is the first time the new menu is being featured in the media.
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