Forget the usual restaurants and cafes, Sorrel in the Telok Ayer district is truly an experience of the senses with “bistronomy” cuisine, at affordable prices
I must confess, I walked past Sorrel more than once in trying to find it. Not that the establishment is nondescript or easily-overlooked, rather, it sits sleekly in its case of shophouse units (with a classy combination of glass, metal and wood on its façade) and with a slightly withdrawn sideways door.
I hope that being nestled comfortably in its space will not be to its detriment. This is truly a dining experience that has to be, well, experienced. Not that every single dish was fantastic, of course.
Sorrel is aptly named after an herb that’s rich in flavour. This allusion to its namesake gives a hint at the inventive creations of Chef Johnston Teo, who began his career at the Raffles Hotel and subsequently honed his skills at The Tippling Club, Pollen and Jaan.
What is “Bistronomy”?
The cuisine of Sorrel is described as “bistronomy”, which is basically a portmanteau of the words “bistro” and “gastronomy”. What this means for us laymen is that while it may be a small restaurant and its prices are affordable, the food can certainly be compared to the fine dining style and standards.
Instead of the common practice of choosing a French- or Japanese-inspired direction, for example, Chef Johnston’s culinary philosophy is to feature only the freshest and highest quality of seasonal ingredients that his team of chefs is able to obtain, and to let the flavours and culinary techniques of the world inspire him.
This frees him to focus on flavour combinations in the food. In fact, Chef Johnston enthuses about his passion in honing his craft, “You’re always pushing the envelope of what you do, thinking of new ways to surprise your guests and make people happy through food!”
A Different Experience of Dining
Lunch at Sorrel is in an always novel omakase style (again, depending on the freshest ingredients available) in three and five courses ($45 and $88), while dinner is in mostly fixed five- and seven-course menus ($88 and $118).
What I tasted from the five-course dinner menu included Monkfish Liver with Pickled Cherries, Fennel and Almonds, and Pork Cheek with Pork Belly, Jamon, Braised Cabbage and Charred Onions. Both dishes had interesting ambrosial flavours that harmoniously melded together.
The Algae Pasta with Dill and Mussel Sauce, Pan Seared Octopus and Mussels was outstanding. The texture and flavour of the octopus was superb.
Truly, I couldn’t resist asking the chef how it was prepared because I was in disbelief! To give you just an idea of it, the exterior of the slice of octopus is lightly crispy, while the inside is very tender, moist and tasty.
Climax in an Amuse-Bouche
In addition to the five dishes on the menu, we were served several amuse-bouches. The Beetroot Sorbet and Vanilla Jelly with Hot Hibiscus Tea was, unquestionably, the climax. It was a thousand times more tantalising than its name sounds. It was pleasing in aesthetics, experience and flavours.
The beetroot sorbet (also much better than it sounds) sits pretty in the form of a sphere, atop a petite vessel housing the hibiscus tea. You slip the orb into your mouth, lift the lid and sip the hot tea. As the hibiscus tea melts the beetroot sorbet with vanilla jelly, all the flavours unravel together in a gentle grenade of yin and yang, with a revelation of flavours caressing and enchanting your tongue.
I know, this sounds like a highly-sensual experience. I hope you get to try it and tell me how you feel. Nonetheless, this is an amuse-bouche and not on the menu, so your fortune depends on the grace of Chef Johnston.
Sorrel, 21 Boon Tat Street, Singapore 069620, Tel: 6221 1911, www.sorrel.sg
By Lester J Wan
Opening Hours:
Mon-Fri, Lunch: 12pm-2pm
Mon-Fri, Dinner: 7pm-10pm
Sat, Dinner: 7pm-10pm
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