What Does Crocodile Meat Taste Like?

Table @ Pip’s

Located in B2 of Orchard Central is a new inventive little restaurant called Table@Pip’s which opened a few weeks ago. (It has moved from the Bukit Timah location). Even though it occupies a rather unfortunate open space under the escalator, the clever modern design makes it all work together. And in a strange way, sets the stage for some of the most unexpected and creative dishes I’ve ever experienced.

Owner-Chef Philip Chua of Table@ Pip’s is a home-grown local chef, who rose up the ranks in 5-Star hotel kitchens in the past 30 years.

Over the years, he has acquired the knowledge to cook many types of international foods and deserts customised to favour local palates including his signature crocodile ribs.

Crocodile Meat anyone?

Like many Singaporeans, I’ve seen the Giant hypermarket ads selling crocodile meat, and I’ve heard that croc meat taste very much like chicken meat. But, why would anyone want to pay more for something that tastes like chicken when chicken costs much less and much easier to prepare? Hm.

But that hasn’t deterred Chef Chua from being adventurous. His BBQ Crocodile Ribs ($29.90) is a labour of love. Four hours of steaming to tenderise the croc meat and copious amounts of ginger to help remove the gamey flavour, the ribs are then smothered with his homemade BBQ sauce.

The meat, quite white like that of fish, forks away from the bone easily. Unlike pork or beef ribs, the meat flaked apart little, but not as much as fish.

The rib bones were white and translucent with a slightly darker marrow in the middle – very much like large fish bones.

So does it taste like BBQ chicken?

Between the savoury BBQ sauce and ginger, the ribs didn’t taste like chicken at all. The ginger, commonly used with fish, triggered (or tricked) the mind to think it tastes a like fish. But it’s not. It was quite distinctive.

Its texture was quite interesting, slightly firmer than a large cooked fish, but definitely not tough at all.

Given our scant vocabulary for describing meat tastes, such as “It tastes like chicken, pork, beef, etc…”,  every other meat in the universe, unfortunately, falls into the category of “gamey”.

Now having tasted croc ribs, I can safely say croc meat tastes like, well, croc meat!

Candied Bacon and Ice Cream? Seriously?

Chef Chua has a few dishes in which he adds candied bacon (sugar-encrusted bacon baked for hours until it caramelises).

The first is the Fruity Fish Fillet ($18.90) which he garnishes with candied bacon. The other is Bread & Butter Pudding with vanilla ice cream topped with candied bacon ($8.90).

Ordinarily, one expects bacon to go well with other meats. So with the Fruity Fish Fillet it was no surprise.

The fillet of cream dory is butterflied and stuffed with sweet glazed apples and lemon zest served with a skewered strip of candied bacon. Indeed it was fruity, and the bacon added a savoury, sweet and smoky taste to the overall taste.

The dish was bursting with a nice medley of fruity and savoury flavours, but I was left wondering where the fish taste had gone.

Fish dish aside, the combination of bread pudding, custard sauce, vanilla ice cream and candied bacon was my immediate favourite. I’ve had bread pudding before, without much fanfare. But Chef Chua’s addition of candied bacon really added new flavour dimension to this classic.

 Other new ideas from Chef Chua

There are a myriad of other deserts and dishes that are worth trying. The Flower Pot Tiramisu ($11.90), for instance, is served in a petite flower pot dusted with Milo (to look like soil) and a stalk of mint leaves planted on top. It’s a novel presentation to dig into!

His Escargot Bourguignon ($9.90 for 4 pieces) is worthy of mention. Unlike traditional escargot swimming a pool of butter, each of his escargot is cupped in a button mushroom, complete with butter and garlic. Full of flavour, yet not greasy at all!

 Verdict

If you are an adventurous foodie and want new experience, then Table@Pip’s has a number of dishes worth trying. Try the Croc Ribs for the novelty of eating croc meat, the Flowerpot Tiramisu for its artful presentation, or the Bread & Butter Pudding for its candied bacon.

Table @ Pip’s, 181 Orchard Rd, Orchard Central, #B2-11/22, Tel : 6467-6867

By Frank Young