In this second part on Bali, Eunice Yap and Frank Young discover some new firsts in eating, playing and loving it in Ubud
As an island more than eight times the size of Singapore, Bali has many popular areas serving tourists looking for beach holidays, except one: Ubud.
“Ubud” is a name derived from the Balinese word “ubad”, which means “medicine”. This is a reference to the medicinal herbs available naturally in this area.
Since the 1930s, Ubud has been an enclave for foreign artists. This was started by William Spies, a European painter whose residence and work in Bali inspired more western artists to help to develop Ubud into what
it is today: the cultural centre of Bali.
In 2010, the story of Eat, Pray, Love (which was later turned into a commercially successful film) was set in Ubud. The story is about a woman who seeks balance through traditional spirituality, leading to romance. This story has inspired more people to seek something more than great beaches.
As one departs from the Southern shores of Bali and moves North towards Ubud, there is a noticeable change in the scenery. Touristy signs began to disappear as we passed more trade villages with their intricate sculptures for sale, temples which became progressively lavish and ornate and, finally, the terraced paddy fields which appeared artistically-crafted into the hillsides.
Roll down your windows and allow the cool and fresh air to embrace you. The weather can be a little unpredictable sometimes, so be prepared for showers of blessings at any time of the day.
We arrived at the Kayumanis Ubud Private Villa & Spa, which is nestled in a lush landscape of cinnamon trees and fragrant blooms, overlooking the forest and Ayung River.
Before entering our villa for the first time, the butler requested that we participate in a Balinese ritual. We were asked to remove our sandals. Then, with a ladle full of water from a Balinese water vessel, he rinsed our feet three times – a ritual to cleanse our body, mind and spirit, so we were told. The ritual and personal butler experience was a first for us.
As the flagship resort, the villas at the Kayumanis Ubud were impeccable. There was a large private pool surrounded by mature, lush landscaping, an open-concept living room area, a kitchen area where your personal chef caters to all your dining needs and a wonderfully-cosy bedroom with adjacent outdoor bathroom and shower – all in about 3,700 square feet of space – to help rejuvenate the senses.
EAT
Apart from spending time basking in our very own private pool, we took the time to sample the local delights in Ubud, which we reckoned was more authentic than in downtown Bali.
As part of the package, the butler chauffeured us about, made recommendations and all the necessary reservations.
As another first, we went to try the signature crispy duck and duck with sambal hijau, a potent concoction of green chilli paste and some secret ingredients, at the famed Bebek Begil Dirty Duck Diner. (I would recommend that you come during the off-peak hours to get a strategic table with a panoramic view of the adjacent paddy fields.)
The duck dishes are good on their own with their specialty sambal but you can couple it with gado-gado (a salad topped with peanut sauce and with prawn crackers at the side). Wash it down with fresh coconut juice, or go local with Bintang beer.
The other must-try, and another first for us, is Ibu Oka’s Warung Babi Guling (roasted pork). The “Pisah” at Rp 60,000 (with soup) and “Special” at Rp 40,000 are like our version of chap chye png (economical rice) with rice, vegetables, pork roll, meat and crispy skin.
If you are totally “meat-ed out”, try Warung Pulau Kelapa, an organic restaurant with a refined twist to Balinese cuisine – we feasted and ordered tempeh penyet (fermented soya beans with special chilli sauce), sop buntut (oxtail soup with mixed vegetables), iga sapi penyet (similar to our version of beef rendang) and opur ayam (green curry chicken).
A sumptuous meal for two will not cost you more than S$20!
PLAY
We also decided to balance our generous intake with an early morning trek, guided by the resort’s butler.
Starting from Ibah, a quaint rural village, this is a relaxing and therapeutic 45-minute walk that allowed us to experience some of Ubud’s most scenic landscapes, traditional rice paddies, a quaint artisan village (specialising in egg-shell painting) and the alluring beauty of the Campuhan and Oos river valleys. This remarkable excursion ends at another delightful rural village, Bangkiang Sidem.
For those who need to do that little bit of shopping, go to the Ubud Market (a mere 10-minute walk from Ibu Oka’s Babi Guling) to get local fare such as batik shirts, tie-dye T-shirts, key chains, sarongs, cushion covers, paintings and souvenirs.
Go up to the second level and remember to negotiate and be bold to ask for a 50 per cent discount!
LOVING IT
On the day before our departure, we succumbed to some pampering at the Kayumanis Spa. Located across the river with a bridge from the main resort complex, the five spa pavilions are tucked away in a secluded and picturesque valley landscape, together with a swimming pool and open-air pavilion for yoga and meditation.
This is truly sublime whilst you let your body, mind and spirit succumb to the natural healing.
If they say that Bali is the “Island of the Gods”, we would say that the Gods reside in Ubud – there is something magical about this place which inspires and rejuvenates visitors from all over the world.
Though we have been here many times, there are always more “firsts” to love about Ubud.
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