‘Kuching’ means ‘cat’ in Malay but our intrepid travel blogger never knew where the place was until he went there
By Darren Ng
While there were quite some cats (real or objectified) in the city, Kuching got its name not because it was the birthplace of any exceptional feline feats but rather, from the longan fruit. A stream, Sungai Kuching, used to run through the city and had its origin from Bukit Mata Kuching (Cat’s Eye Hill).
The hill was so-named because of an abundance of the local fruit (mata kuching) on it; and due to the fruit’s semblance to a cat’s eye, with a black pit showing through its translucent peeled flesh like a pupil. (To the Chinese, ‘longan’ is translated as ‘dragon’s eye’).
Today, the cat has become an affiliated identity that this biggest city in the East Malaysian state of Sarawak holds dear. It is also known as the Land of the Hornbill and is famous for being home to the world’s largest flower, the Rafflesia.
Kuching Waterfront
The most prominent area in the city is probably the 1km-long Kuching Waterfront on the South bank of the Sarawak River. One side of the waterway contains all the urban developments such as hotels, shopping centres, financial centres and residential districts, while the opposite bank offers a somewhat rustic back-to-kampong appeal with wooden houses and dense forestry.
You can commute between the two sides by taking one of the many sampans known as tambang along the river. It costs only RM0.50 one-way but check with the boatman for the time of the last service.
Along the waterfront, you can find some F&B tents but I doubt their integrity in hygiene. There’s not much to do there except to take a leisurely stroll and enjoy the sunset, which can be spectacular.
Bako National Park
Any trip to Kuching would not be complete without a visit to one of its many natural attractions. There’re more than a dozen national parks in Sarawak and Bako is probably the most popular and accessible from Kuching.Initially, we planned to take a half-day tour to see the Rafflesia flower at Gunung Gading National Park but there were none in bloom during our stay there. The really huge ones could measure up to 1m in diameter.
A Rafflesia’s bloom lasts between five to seven days and the natives pluck the flowers for medicinal uses. Always check with the local agents on your chances of seeing a Rafflesia.
There are quite a few shops along the waterfront that offer day-tour packages. You can choose from half and full-day tours around the city, to forest safaris that last several days.
The original price to tour Bako was RM190 but the agent said there’s a discount on that day and we paid RM160 per person.
The package includes a two-way land transfer, two-way boat trip, and a park guide. Lunch was not included. If you do not take a tour package and decide to charter a boat (that can hold up to six tourists) at the jetty, it costs RM93.
Bako is a huge park with various trails with varying levels of difficulties and length. There’s accommodation in the park for those who plan to stay longer. We were first brought on an easy trail with paved roads and I expressed my disappointment that there’s no ‘feel’ in a trek like this. That was until we were brought on a real forest trail…
Flora & Fauna
At the park, we were introduced to various species of flora and fauna with explanations on their usefulness. We saw rattan growing in the wild and a thorny palm whose spikes are used as blow darts by native hunters. The spikes were really sharp! But the most interesting plant was the Tongkat Ali – the Malay folk medicine equivalent of Viagra.
A small segment of Tongkat Ali sells for a high price so it’s important to verify the authenticity of the plant. There’re three confirmation tests that can be done: 1. Roll its leaf with your fingers – real Tonkgat Ali’s leaf won’t break; 2. Slowly tear the leaf – the ‘wound’ should present a feathery texture; 3. Taste the leaf sap – it is very, very bitter.
We also saw some wild animals with our closest encounter with danger coming from a green snake perfectly camouflaged on a small shrub at shin height. And there was also a termite’s nest the size of a bowling ball hanging precariously on a thin stem right next to a forest path.
For the uninitiated, it is useful to have a guide and always stay on the designated paths. I was told that even very experienced guides can get lost in the Bako forest.
This is an excerpt from www.explorelah.blogspot.sg
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