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Labyrinth continues to conjure neo-Singaporean magic

Expect the unexpected with local flavours reinvented in a creative light

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The delightful Orh Luak (Oyster Omelette) is served in a breaded croquette concealing a sous vide egg.

 

When it comes to Restaurant Labyrinth, what you get and what you see could be uniquely different.

The magic is, for instance, in being served a delicately-constructed xiao long bao in pandan skin and biting into spheres of cendol, complete with gula Melaka (palm sugar) syrup that comes disguised as a vinegar dip.

Even local favourites such as Orh Luak (Oyster Omelette), satay and chilli crab are not spared the innovative touches of Chef Han Liguang.

 

Pioneering Neo-Singaporean Cuisine

As a pioneer of the neo-Singaporean cuisine style — a representation of familiar local flavours in novel and unexpected forms — Chef Han takes pride in storytelling through his dishes. This is evident in Labyrinth’s nine-course Experience tasting menu.

Now, with Labyrinth relocated to a brand new place, at the Esplanade, diners can expect a range of new dishes including a pre-theatre menu. If it’s your first time here, a good introduction to Labyrinth’s creations would be the lunch tasting menu at $88 for five courses.

 

Local Flavours Reinvented

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The amuse bouche of Kaya Butter and Rojak is an intriguing take on the classic Singaporean breakfast.

 

For starters, we were served an amuse bouche of Kaya Butter and Rojak, an intriguing version of local breakfast food. The Kaya Butter appeared in the form of macaron shells sandwiching a dollop of freshly-whipped butter. The Rojak was a piece of eu char kway (dough fritter) covered in gula Melaka sauce and crushed peanuts.

The melding of sweet and salty flavours was refreshing and the presentation of the dish offered a glimpse of what was to come.

Next we tucked into the Orh Luak, consisting of a breaded croquette concealing a sous vide egg, covered in briny oyster foam. When savoured together, the combined flavours tasted like a light-as-air version of the oyster omelette, minus the oiliness.

 

Classics with a Twist

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Fish and Chips in the form of soup? Truly innovative.

 

Paying homage to the British influence on Hainanese cuisine is the Fish & Chips.

The dish comes with a mould of mayonnaise ice cream as well as deep fried bits of John Dory fish.

The star of my meal had to be the Satay Beef, using Grade 6 Wagyu ribeye grilled over charcoal fire — an upscale take on the skewered meat. The beef was medium rare and tender, bursting with the richness of the satay marinade.

The ketupat (rice dumpling) was in the form of a miniature peanut mochi, with a pleasant chewiness.

Labyrinth’s new offerings build upon the imagination of its past creations, reinterpreting Singaporean hawker classics into playful dishes.
By Samantha Francis
Restaurant Labyrinth, Esplanade Mall, 8 Raffles Avenue, #02-23, Singapore 039802, Tel: 6223 4098

 

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