Restaurant Review: PS.Cafe Introduces Its Latest Japanese Dining Concept, JYPSY

The menu offers reinventions of Japanese delights

Photo: Weekender/JYPSY

There are only three reasons why we’d return to PS.Cafe: The truffle fries, the sticky date pudding, and the interior design we can only wistfully gaze upon like porn.  Some may turn to Pinterest, but spending time at various PS.Cafe enclaves is all BTO couples need to gain as much design inspiration. Even the cafe brand’s American Chinese identity of Chopsuey also draws patrons with its effortless style.

But alas, Chopsuey is left with only the Dempsey Hill outlet, as the one at Martin Road has seen a facelift to make way for the new nationality of JYPSY, a casual Japanese concept. And in true P.S Cafe fashion, JYPSY is so stupidly gorgeous.

Contemporary yet casual approach to Japanese cuisine – that’s what JYPSY describes its food. Now, the word ‘contemporary’ has made it easy for the cafe to get away with most of its…um, gourmet inventions. What we’re trying to say is that dishes offered are seemingly formed out of an ambitious idea, instead of Japanese classics that were given a creative JYPSY twist. Somewhere, purists are rolling their eyes.

JYPSY Salmon Tacos ($14)

Case in point: The JYPSY Salmon Tacos ($14). The Mexican-Japanese mashup sports a seaweed taco shell that cups raw King salmon cubes, avocado and tomato salsa. While daunting it may appear, the taco is actually not bad. It’s like chowing down on a handroll that is a lot crunchier and moist.

Then there’s the Nest of Fries ($18) which may be the only reason why we’ll be heading back to this super stylish abode. Said to pay homage to PS.Cafe’s truffle fries, this version has its potato so thinly shredded, and fried to a superb crisp that you’d shove a fistful in the mouth and still won’t be satisfied. The accompaniments of white truffle oil, wasabi mayo, and teriyaki balsamic sauce sustain your carbo-loading.

The closest thing JYPSY may offer to authentic Japanese food is the robatayaki sticks, something decent, such as the teriyaki-glazed Pork Belly Robata Stick ($12) or Chicken Wings ($11), to order just because you feel like it.

JYPSY Rainbow ($19)

Predictably, contemporary Japanese food includes an array of California-style makis. Order the Smoked Mackerel Sushi Roll ($14), and the JYPSY Rainbow ($19), of which you can get a taste of torched salmon belly tartare, Bluefin tuna, and yellowtail all wrapped in one roll.

While we have noted the creative efforts, JYPSY Sashimi (from $17) range was not working for us with redundant frills of avruga caviar, truffle oil, herbs and spices slapped on tuna, king salmon, swordfish belly and yellowtail. Perhaps it’s because we’re a stickler to only having sashimi pure and unadulterated, with the exception of wasabi and a splash of shoyu. But isn’t that suppose to be the case? Letting the natural oceanic flavours shine? Thankfully, there is a Classic Sashimi (from $19) option to appease us.

Nest of Fries ($18)

With all that creativity gleaned from the savouries, you’d think the desserts are equally as enchanting. Unfortunately, that isn’t the case with the rather costly apple pie flavoured Mama Cream Puff ($9) that is served a little deflated and the cream lacking flavour. The Yuzu Tofu Cheesecake ($10) is also kind of a miss with more tofu and hardly any cheese taste. The Watermelon Granita ($9), served with calamansi jelly. disappoints as well with only fleeting hints of watermelon, before giving way to tasteless, jagged ice shavings.

Thankfully, PS.Cafe is literally right next door. So, excuse us as we head on there for the sticky date pudding.

Address: 38 Martin Road, Singapore 239072
Contact No.: 8188 6177
Website: www.pscafe.com/jypsy-martin-road
Opening Hours: 11.30am to 4:00pm; 5:30pm to 11.00pm (Tuesday – Sunday)

A Chinese version of this article appeared here.

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