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How to talk to your tailor: Tips for getting the best customised suit

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With the launch of tailoring brands The Bespoke Club and Haber in Singapore, you may not have to venture overseas for affordable customised suits

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Gear up for sartorial splendour. (Photo: The Bespoke Club)

As debonair spy Harry Hart once said in the movie Kingsman: The Secret Service, “A suit is a modern gentleman’s armour”. But pick any suit off the rack and chances are, you’ll end up with oversized jackets or too-tight pants that do not flatter your body shape — after all, not everyone fits perfectly into S, M or L sizes.

Another solution? Customise your suit from top to toe to ensure the perfect fit. And there’s no need to travel to Thailand, Hong Kong or Vietnam to get it done now, thanks to the new bespoke — and affordable — tailors that have emerged on the local scene.

Weekender speaks to the two new kids on the block, The Bespoke Club and Haber, to find out how you can create your perfect suit.

Colours and prints

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Choose between various prints to suit your style. (Photo: The Bespoke Club)

When it comes to business suits, you can never go wrong with classic colours like blue, black or grey.

“As a rule of thumb – the darker the shade and tone, the more formal the suit will be,” says Annie Yeong, Haber’s founder.

If you are attending semi-formal events such as beach or garden-themed weddings, then a sports jacket and trousers matched with accessories like pocket squares, cufflinks or lapel pins is good enough, says The Bespoke Club’s retail manager Ricky Rawat.

The real fun comes during parties, where you can have your suits in funkier colours like red, pink or purple, or with floral or geometric prints, says Ms Yeong.

The right fit with the right style

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With so many options to choose from, you’ll be spoilt for choice.

Forget off-the-rack suits which may not do a good job in concealing flaws — for instance, those with bigger builds should ideally avoid bright colours and glossy finishes as such styles emphasise problem areas, says Ms Yeong.

Instead, go for dark-coloured fabrics with smooth finishes which create the illusion of a slimmer body, says Mr Rawat.

To look taller, go for one or two-button suits with narrow lapels, as the deep ‘v’ formed by the suit closure gives an illusion of height.

Staying cool under the Singapore sun

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Choosing the right materials will keep your suit well-ventilated. (Photo: The Bespoke Club)

Many may think that suits are impractical for Singapore’s tropical climate.

But you don’t have to look like a sweaty mess if you use the right fabric.

As heavy as it sounds, natural wool, for example, is a good choice for a business suit as it is lightweight and breathable, say both Ms Yeong and Mr Rawat.

To keep cool, opt for a half-lined or unlined suit. The absence of the jacket’s inner layer helps to keep the suit well-ventilated and prevents the accumulation of excessive heat, says Ms Yeong.

For those in the creative industries, or who simply want a casual suit, go for breathable fabrics like lightweight cotton or linen to stay cool throughout the day, says Ms Yeong.

Customised shirts start from $149 at Haber and $150 at TBC, and customised suits start from $950 at TBC.

By Jaime Chua

HABER, Level 4, Robinsons – The Heeren, 260 Orchard Road, Singapore 238855

The Bespoke Club, Suntec City Mall, 3 Temasek Boulevard, #01-484, Singapore 038983 [Mall Entrance between Tower 1 & 2]

 

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