Put on the pin-stripe and imbibe on the style and ambience of a Ginza-styled bar experience in Singapore
Located along Bukit Pasoh Road, is the entrance to D.Bespoke. The façade is featureless and understated. So much so, that I walked past it thrice, before I noticed a small plaque with the letters “DB” delicately engraved upon it. Clearly, D.Bespoke intends to receive clients with an eye for details.
Enigmatic Entrance
When I entered, I still wasn’t sure it was a bar. I stepped into, what appears to be, a small little curio shop containing fantastic works of Japanese crafts.
Artfully displayed in the 400 sq. feet of space were beautifully handmade artisanal cocktail glasses, metal-knitted metal wares, jet-black bamboo woven wallets, and various works of exquisite crafts from renowned Japanese family brands, such as Kohchosai Kosuga, Kimura, and Kanaami-Tsuji, who have perfected their craft through generations.
Even though their names don’t ring any bells for me, I instantly recognized their quality and realized I’m not likely to find these in Takashima’s household department!
But before I could pull out my plastic to make a purchase, my host arrived to usher me through a small side door into the bar. Just like in the Speakeasies during the American prohibition era, hidden bars were fronted by a retail establishment. The feeling of being discreet, secretive, and exclusive is intriguing!
Old World Cosiness
There is a lot of dark wood in D.Bespoke. The low ceilings are encased with wood. As are the walls, except for the silk panels, which breaks the monotony. The grand centrepiece in this railroad-shaped space is a 15 metre long teak wood bar running along its length. The combination of low ceiling encased in dark wood and lots of teak made me feel as I was in the galley of a 19th century schooner. Nothing wrong, per se, I just didn’t think it was intended.
Instead of the usual barstools by the counter, D.Bespoke has a row of chestnut-coloured leather winged chairs for their guests. There is a dedicated staff whose job is to shift the chair in and out for patrons easy access. A good idea, especially for those guests with a few tots too many, a graceful exit from a heavy wing chair may not be as easy as it appears. So, brownie points for the attention to service.
The cosy bar can handle 28 lucky patrons at any given time, getting the full attention of the head bartender and owner, Daiki-San Kanetaka.
- Ginza-Style bartending is all about style and sophistication.
Commanding Performance
Sporting a pin-stripe, double-breasted, suit, Daiki-San Kanetaka, in his mid-thirties, cultivates a Van Dyke beard, like the swashbuckling Errol Flynn, which makes him appear much older and sophisticated. And like Errol, he commands attention like a performer on stage behind the bar.
Unlike Tom Cruise’s bottle juggling performance in the 1988 movie “Cocktails”, Daiki-San, mixes his bespoke cocktails with the ritualistic precision of a Japanese tea ceremony. Each twist of the lemon, turn of a cap, wipe of the glass is a display of control and finesse.
Ginza-Style Bartending Philosophy
Daiki-San has been in the bartending business for over a decade, starting with Star Bar Ginza in Japan. When asked, why he decided to do this in Singapore, he said he wanted to “make new culture”, and “make new style” in Singapore. Therefore, he fashioned D.Bespoke after the classic Ginza-style bars and brought its bar culture into Singapore.
I asked what the difference is between the Japanese Ginza-style and Singapore bars. In Japan, he explains, retail space is very expensive and tables are a luxury. More common long counters save space and allow patrons to interact directly with the barkeep.
Another difference, he added, bartenders in Ginza are very “hospitality-oriented”, and they believe “bartending is their life”. So they dedicate themselves to perfecting the craft.
Perfect Ice. Handmade Glasses.
When it comes to perfection, very little is left to chance in his craft. Even the quality of ice is scrutinized. At D.Bespoke the ice is specially made. Water is meticulously filtered to remove impurities and specially frozen to enhance clarity. The result is a crystal clear block of ice, hand-cut with a special chopper into large cubes for each drink. That’s correct! He cuts his own ice cubes on demand with a special ice cleaver. Crazy. But impressive.
He cuts his own ice cubes on demand with a special ice cleaver. Crazy. But impressive.
Ironically enough, inconsistency is welcomed in his Kimura glassware. Each cocktail glass is handcrafted, thinner than machine-made glassware, and unique in details. He attests that the Kimura glasses enhance the drinking experience.
Journey down the palate
While other bartenders serve drinks; Daiki-san offers a journey into the world of flavourful libations. He begins by asking a few questions regarding alcohol of choice, taste preferences, such as dry, sweet, sour, fruity, floral, etc, and factors in strength from aperitif to heavy. Then he designs the cocktail for you to explore.
For me, I chose whisky as a starter and requested sweet and strong taste profiles. He gave me a thoughtful gaze, looked up ponderingly for a second, and begun. After hearing a series of fridge doors shutting, ice chiseling, crystal glass clinking, I was served.
Before me, sat a beautiful crystal tumbler containing a large hand-cut, crystalline cube of ice, bathed in a golden elixir made from 12 year old Yamazaki and 15 year old Drambuie, or commonly known as a “Rusty Nail”. With one sip, I tasted the smooth wonderful Yamazaki mixed with cool honey sweetness! A sweet journey, indeed.
These journeys come at a price though. Each customized cocktail starts from $27. A small price, perhaps, for those seeking the ultimate bespoke bar experience in Singapore. As I savoured the sip, I marvelled at how this man made a bar experience exude with sophistication.
It is a world apart from the usual taverns and pubs I’m used to. It’s time for me to move up to D.Bespoke, now that I know where it is.
By Frank Young
Reservations are highly recommended. A minimum spend of $60 per person applies.
- The understated antechamber is the gateway to a bespoke drinking experience.
D.Bespoke
2 Bukit Pasoh Rd (65) 8141-5741
Mon-Sat: 6pm – 12am Sun: Closed
www.dbespoke.sg
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